Anderson Valley Wine Country Suggestions: Hotels/B&Bs

When it comes to wine country destinations, I feel strongly that Anderson Valley is a special place -- and much more genuine than the other, well-trodden alternatives. Some thoughts on Anderson Valley, which is probably my favorite wine country place to visit:

Hotels/B&Bs
While the Boonville Hotel is a good choice in town, for a more luxurious oceanfront stay, which can sometimes be 20-30 degrees cooler than Boonville on a hot Summer evening, try the following:
1) The Harbor House Inn in Elk (on the ocean, perhaps a half hour from the Anderson Valley tasting rooms, located in one of the most picturesque locations on the entire West Coast) is an excellent B&B. These are top notch accommodations in an intimate setting, with high quality meals in a dining room opening up to unmatched views, and off the beaten track. To properly set expectations: the view from the front lawn was on the cover of Sunset Magazine in 2006.
2) Elk Cove Inn and Spa. If you stay here you still should reserve at least one meal at the Harbor House, just up the street.
3) Any of a number of B&Bs in the Mendocino area, perhaps 45 minutes from the tasting rooms. There are quite a few to choose from. I recently had a good experience at the McCallum House and Stevenswood Lodge, but others that come highly recommended include Joshua Grindle Inn, Brewery Gulch Inn, Little River Inn, Albion River Inn and a bunch of others. Thanks to Mendocino, there are also several good dining options in the area.

Sonoma Wine Country Suggestions: IV - Tasting - Russian River

5b) Many of my favorite wines just happen to be clustered in wineries located on or near to the Russian River (western Sonoma county). Unlike the wineries above, which can be a little like running a gauntlet on a straight road, these are tucked away off the main roads, with lots of lush greenery and rolling hills. These are scattered somewhat, but if you do the River Road tour, you can find an excellent concentration of wineries. Most tend to specialize in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. My favorites include:
* Lynmar -- with a great patio to sit and sip on
* Hartford Court
* Iron Horse
* Martinelli
* Marimar Torres
* Gary Farrell
* Rochioli
* Porter Creek -- a little hole in the wall, worth stopping at for the off-off-wine-country experience

5c) If you decide to do the Russian River tour, plan to stop at Korbel, grab something at their upscale 'deli' and eat outside there.

Sonoma Wine Country Suggestions: III - Tasting in Sonoma-Kenwood

5a) There are many wineries for tasting-only purposes. A good deal of your selection process should be based on the varietals you enjoy most. Check with your concierge for tips but these are some of my favorites to bring visitors to and are located in the same general area (Sonoma-Kenwood, aka southern Sonoma county), listed roughly in order from glitziest to most unassuming:

• Chateau St. Jean -- opulent and showy estate, but with a good selection of wines and a great place to walk around
• Ledson Winery -- fun place with an interesting selection of wines. Looks touristy but tucked away off the beaten track; good tasting experience
• Benziger -- pretty, hilly location; good wines
• Ravenswood -- a mecca of sorts for zinfandel lovers
• Gundlach Bundschu -- if you're going to Ravenswood, this one is around the corner in a picturesque, woodsy setting. Nice wines, with a Germanic flair to boot.
• The Wine Room -- a co-op for a half dozen or so smaller wineries where the winemakers are often present to pour the wines and tell you all about them. High quality wines, great prices, fun atmosphere, and a different type of experience, etc.
• Locals -- this one is a bit out of the way, in Geyserville, near Chateau Soverain, but if you like the idea of co-ops like The Wine Room but you want more wineries, smaller vineyards, more pourings, and a nearly infinite amount of wine to consume in one sitting, this is the place to go. Consider a designated driver for this place, if not all the others.

Sonoma Wine Country Suggestions: II - Food

3a) For food, my #1 suggestion is the Farmhouse Inn. It is a B&B and a fine place to stay, but not up to the luxury/pampering standards of the Sonoma Mission Inn, Healdsburg Inn and Carneros Inn described below. They feature absolutely amazing California cuisine, an intimate/romantic setting and perhaps the best cheese course in the United States. Last time I checked, they were rated a 28 by Zagat, and unlike some wine country destinations, will not require a second mortgage.

3b) In the town of Sonoma, you should definitely check out Cafe La Haye and The Girl and the Fig, which is also a great lunch stop. Walk around this town a little too. Just north of the town of Sonoma, I like Kenwood (in Kenwood) -- not a lot of flash, but a good choice for lunch or dinner.

3c) Napa has a bunch of superb restaurants and most people put French Laundry at the top of the list. The trick is getting in to this Yountville restaurant. Also, here is where the second mortgage will come in handy. Bistro Jeanty is another excellent Yountville choice, with a French flair. Terra in St. Helena and La Toque in Rutherford are two other "can't miss" choices. Mustard's Grill in the town of Napa is a great choice for lunch.

4a) Two hybrid winery/food suggestions merit a mention:

• If you make it to northern Sonoma, try the Alexander Valley Grille, beautifully situated, with very good food (I'd suggest lunch) in the Chateau Souverain winery:
• Domaine Chandon, the sparkling wine house, also has good food at their Napa location
  

Sonoma Wine Country Suggestions: I - Lodging

Some thoughts from someone who lives in Marin and spends a lot of time in the wine country:

1) Go for Sonoma over Napa -- not as built up and touristy, more peaceful and romantic, fewer tasting fees (one of the "innovations" we've seen in the last 25 years since I first visited)

2a) The best luxury/spa hotel is the Sonoma Mission Inn, which is a Fairmont hotel and may have the best spa in all of the extended Bay Area. It is hard to argue with either the Wine Country suites or Mission suites. Keep in mind that this is a 'resort' hotel, so there is nothing of interest in walking distance. The food at their Sante restaurant is very good.

2b) For a more European and modern hotel, also luxurious and right near one of the nicer wine country towns, check out the Hotel Healdsburg. Their Dry Creek Kitchen restaurant can be highly recommended. I might give this place a slight nod over the Sonoma Mission Inn, but my wife and most other wives who have tried both would vote for SMI and their spa.

2c) Can't decide on Napa vs. Sonoma or want to do both? You can hedge your bets by staying at the Carneros Inn, which is technically in Napa, but is really halfway between the destination points in either county. This luxury inn is only a year or so old and has been getting rave reviews. It is a more rustic location and is also a good choice if you want to feel away from the (nearby) hustle and bustle.